I am rebuilding a "gifted" AR Kits 45 class, have the chassis, completely undecorated body and footplate, and thats all - no instructions etc.  It runs fine, but has no couplers....so which should I install?  Can't find an instruction manual for the kit on the AR Kits site, have ordered a new decorated body and footplate but would like to couple the unit to some carriages and see how it pulls

I am rebuilding a "gifted" AR Kits 45 class, have the chassis, completely undecorated body and footplate, and thats all - no instructions etc. It runs fine, but has no couplers....so which should I install? Can't find an instruction manual for the kit on the AR Kits site, have ordered a new decorated body and footplate but would like to couple the unit to some carriages and see how it pulls

It depends a bit on how close you want to be able to couple up....which is determined by how sharp your curves are for the most part.

I've owned a couple of these locos and they were okay using Kadee #5 couplers, but my minimun radius is around 33" and mostly around 40". I had no issues with the buffers binding-up with a coupled loco or carriage/wagon. I like to get my models as close as possible to each other!

I've ended up selling both my AR Kits 45 class models as they just don't come up to the standards I expect operation wise plus they are very finnicky and the body mounting arrangements leave much to be desired.....but that's just my opinion.

Roachie

If you have some carriages the wise thing to do would be to fit couplers that are compatible with those on your carriages.

I'd use #153, most others, I suspect would use #158 or 148, and I guess that more than a few would use "old faithful", #5. More important is the selection of coupler draft box: the #242 "black box" that comes with the whisker couplers will not fit, so you will have to use #232 boxes (come with #5 couplers).

If the chassis is the original (with flywheels), it will pull almost as much as the finished loco, but the chassis without flywheels will need the weights that fit over the drive shafts to shift much more than itself.

I'd use #153, most others, I suspect would use #158 or 148, and I guess that more than a few would use "old faithful", #5. More important is the selection of coupler draft box: the #242 "black box" that comes with the whisker couplers will not fit, so you will have to use #232 boxes (come with #5 couplers).

If the chassis is the original (with flywheels), it will pull almost as much as the finished loco, but the chassis without flywheels will need the weights that fit over the drive shafts to shift much more than itself.

Thanks to all - the motor/chassis is complete with weights, all the giblets are there, just none of the cosmetic bits!  The other slightly confusing thing is the underside of the motors/wheel mounts - looking from the bottom, both have arrows that point opposite directions.  Both point to the centre, I thought that perhaps these were directional hints and that they should both point the same way - but the loco works fine?

As for the couplers, I will go to Micromodels in Hornsby tomorrow to see if they have some I can "try" - before I buy.

Cheers

The early AR KIT CO 45's had a recommended KaDee number 26. Rodney James had this for the tighter radius curves of the day and to clear the buffers on some models.
I have fitted number fives to my fleet of 45's (eight) and they work fine. So any KaDee of the same elk will fit.
The arrows on the bogies point back to the fuel tank. Simple when you know.
Regards and respect

The arrows on the bogies point back to the fuel tank. Simple when you know.
Regards and respect

Thanks - I get confused easily

Cheers

The early AR KIT CO 45's had a recommended KaDee number 26. Rodney James had this for the tighter radius curves of the day and to clear the buffers on some models.
I have fitted number fives to my fleet of 45's (eight) and they work fine. So any KaDee of the same elk will fit.
The arrows on the bogies point back to the fuel tank. Simple when you know.
Regards and respect

Well, I tried the 5s but they fouled the buffer tops - eventually fixed #22 (medium overset) and they cleared the obstacles - but talk about a tight fit!!

Won't that leave the coupler too low...?

I had remembered that there were buffers in NSW, but I'd forgotten that, in the diesel era, they joined them together!

Do be aware that 20 series couplers are plastic. The 40 series metal couplers are being replaced by 140 series couplers, but there is little sign of additional 150 series couplers, yet.

I think that your coupler will be low, and that you'd do well to, at least, try a #58 coupler, even if you have to file back the top of the trip pin (where it is staked). It may be that you will need a long coupler to clear the contraption between the buffers.

Kadee have a nifty chart that shows the availability of couplers. http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/coupler.htm

Won't that leave the coupler too low...?

Well, this is how it looks - seems OK to me.....?

It's a funny angle, but it does look low to me. How does it go on the gauge?

It's a funny angle, but it does look low to me. How does it go on the gauge?

Seems OK according to the gauge...

If it's OK by the gauge it should be fine, as long as the plastic footplate is firmly down on the diecast chassis, because the footplate will be firmly down when the body is clipped into the chassis.