I was just reading back through Blackadders current thread....was going to make a comment within that thread, but didn't want to get it off-topic; hence this new thread.
There seems to be a trend towards using Electrofrog points amongst the readers here.
My opinion (for what it's worth, having many decades of model railway experience) is that it depends how you intend to control your points as to which type is more suited to your layout. I reckon there are pros and cons for both types and will attempt to outline my thoughts below.
I operate my points manually (for the most part...the exception being 5 that I cannot easily reach). I have heard it mentioned too that it depends on whether your layout is DC or DCC as to what system suits you best.
Pros: They need no additional wiring, with the exception that I always add a small section of copper stranding (from a 240v household wiring cable....the type the sparkies use to wire-up your house, not the flex cord off your old kettle). These 2 short bits of copper are soldered underneath the point before installing on the layout. Their purpose is to ensure there is a proper electrical connection between the outside rails and the closure rails...thus you are not relying on the point blades to transfer power. Peco even provide the correct place to install these wires, by leaving out a section between the plastic sleepers.
Cons: If you use "steam roller" wheels (as Terry calls them), then there is the chance of momentary shorting near the nose of the frog, as the outer edge of the wide wheel/s touches the "wrong" rail for an instant. In my case I have noticed (when running the layout in low lighting conditions) there will be occasional sparks when this happens. However, it is not enough to stall a loco etc.
Pros: You don't get the same issues as mentioned immediately above is the "Cons" section of the Insulfrog comments. If you're using point motors to operate your points, and if these point motors have a SPDT switch either incorporated or as an accessory, then this type of point is probably preferable. With Electrofrogs I always use plastic rail joiners on the 2 rails leaving the frog.
Cons:In my case, operating the various Electrofrog points that I installed when I first started this current layout, by hand as I walk around the layout with my train, I was required to add some form of switch to ensure I had good power routing through the length of the point. In fact, my experience is that every Electrofrog point will need to have a wire soldered to the frog, and that wire taken to the common terminal of some form of SPDT switch. This may not be necessary if your point is leading into a dead end siding that doesn't require power all the time, but in that case you would still be relying on the good contact of the point blades in order to get positive power feed to that siding.
I've tried a few different switches. Obviously, where I've installed the 5 point motors, I've used Peco's accessory switch to route the power to the frog (if that point has in fact been an Electrofrog of course). For the manually operated points, I've attached a ON/ON micro-switch to the baseboard, beside the point, in such a position that the throwing of the tie bar of the point will also move the spring-loaded actuating arm of the micro-switch. This works fairly well.
Recently, however, I had to fit a No8 Shinohara curved point into a large radius curve, so that I could have a new (extra) entry point into my new turntable arrangement. Shinohara points are of the Electrofrog variety and have no centering spring arrangement like the Peco points have.....so a microswitch would not have been ideal unless I also fitted a ground-throw lever! A search on ebay found the answer. For just a few dollars I was able to buy (from China, where else), a bag of 50 very small SPDT slide switches. The throw of these switches is ideal for the throw of the typical HO scale point blades. So, I was able to mount this very small switch beside the point (after having drilled a small hole through the switch's actuating lever) and connect it to the point with a piece of 0.5mm brass wire, then solder the 3 wires into position. It works a treat!!
So, there you go....that is my "take" on the type of point/s that you may wish to choose from. Now lets have a "mass debate"....because there are plenty of "mass-debaters" on this site that will be champing at the bit to tell me how wrong I am. Go for it!! hahaha