I've just completed the fitting of the Tsunami (AT1000) decoder to the 2nd of my 45s.
This time I was a bit neater about it and snipped-off the capacitor at the board, removed the 2 wires and then bent the 2 pins before re-attaching the cap directly to the underside of the board. This means it sits just above the rear flywheel and it negates the need to have those 2 heavy-duty wires snaking around and having to be retained with Kapton tape.
I also pre-attached the 2 1K ohm diodes to the board and situated them under the board too, making it neater and easier to attach the white lighting wire once the board was mounted on the chassis.
Now, those of you who have read my previous writings about lighting may recall that I am not too worried about the lighting effects on my locos. In fact I have said previously that with my hood-type locos I don't even bother with any lighting at the end of the long hood and I DETEST
seeing such a loco running long-end leading.
However, in my never-ending attempt to better myself, I decided to at least attempt
to hook up the lighting wires.
Having tested the loco/s on 12vdc (on a rolling road), I knew that the markers would switch from white to red when direction is reversed. There are 4 wires on the lighting boards; white, blue, purple and orange. I sussed-out on the first loco that the white is common and that the blue and purple are the white (head and marker) lights. That presumably means that the orange wire is for the red markers.
However, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get the red markers to work....I tried attaching the (lengthened) orange wire to the blue/purple solder tab on the opposite end, but that didn't work.
So I have left the orange wires unattached (in fact I have snipped them off close to where they exit the chassis) on these first 2 locos.....like I have said previously, I am not too concerned whether the lights all function at all.
However, having said that, I would love to know (just out of curiosity at least) what I would have to do to get the red markers to work. I am definitely NOT interested in attaching the wire/s to the F5/F6 tabs on the side of the decoder. I would only ever want the lights to be activated by the "HEADLIGHT" button on my NCE throttles, so if the red markers can't be attached to switch over automatically from white to red when direction is changed (as I suspect to be the case), then I will simply keep going the way I am and not have any red markers "working".
If any of the electronics gurus reading this can steer me in the right direction, I will give their ideas a go.....
I also added 30 grams of weight to the inside of the short hood for a bit of extra traction.