Locomotives and Rollingstock on your Workbench

 
  SAR523 Assistant Commissioner

Location: Chicago, IL
Thanks gents,
With the yellow I certainly applied it over the silver, I usually use primer first but not this time which probably didn't help. Yellow first and then mask the stripes is the way to go, this is what if and a practice model.

It's just the one loco and carriage, painted different each side, I couldn't choose which to paint, and most of the time you only see one side- so two for one! The CLP style is the better by far, naturally because it's the most attractive livery on an Aussie diesel Wink
Streamliner
Nice work!

One suggestion for yellow - I picked this up from some miniature painting - try a medium to light brown as an undercoat (on a test piece first!).  Even though the technique is from brush painting, I found it worked pretty well spraying XF-3.  It just goes on a lot smoother over brown than white.  Or you can fall back to a TS-16 enamel spray can.

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  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Ok Guys, I have finally managed to finish a few things.















  SA_trains Deputy Commissioner

Location: ACT
Great work Matt! (as always!)

Is the roof on the Dyno car 3-D printed or have you used something else?

Cheers,

Dan
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

The Dyno Car roof is printed. However, I printed all the vents separately to the roof so I could sand the roof smooth first. There were big square holes in the roof so I could locate the vents accurately.

With the master for the kit I have done the same thing so that no print lines appear, but I glued the vents in before taking a mould so the roof will be a smooth one piece item (except for the one small vent over the cooker and the foghorn looking thing).
  Streamliner Junior Train Controller

Location: NSW South Coast
In a parallel universe class leader XL01 passes through Balhannah during AN's test runs around the state. There is one detail I missed....

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140658063@N08/28612265731/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140658063@N08/28612308471/in/photostream/
  SAR523 Assistant Commissioner

Location: Chicago, IL
In a parallel universe class leader XL01 passes through Balhannah during AN's test runs around the state. There is one detail I missed....

Streamliner
The  steps under the cab doors?

The AN scheme was good looking, wasn't it?
  lkernan Assistant Commissioner

Location: Melbourne
In a parallel universe class leader XL01 passes through Balhannah during AN's test runs around the state. There is one detail I missed....
Streamliner

The first pic gets my vote. Not so sure about the slanted yellow section on the second one.
Also reminds me of DP13 from Tasmania.
  Streamliner Junior Train Controller

Location: NSW South Coast
SAR523 you get the gold star! yes I painted the bogies opposite to the way I planned, even after I double checked, an easy fix as the side frames are a press fit into the bogie.

lkernan that is one interesting looking railcar, I had not seen that one before.

I brainstormed a few designs, from a full length green stripe, a yellow stripe, even a reverse 'lemon twist' livery. But too much yellow looked odd. I do have a 00 scale HST125 set in the stash, so if I feel the need to experiment again I'll give it a go.
  SA_trains Deputy Commissioner

Location: ACT
The CLP-like livery is definitely the pick! A very good look. Well done!
  dthead Site Admin

Location: Melbourne, Australia
your XPT exploits made we wonder, what if Vline/Victorian Government insisted on one unit being Vline....

Regards,
David Head
  lkernan Assistant Commissioner

Location: Melbourne
your XPT exploits made we wonder, what if Vline/Victorian Government insisted on one unit being Vline....

Regards,
David Head
dthead

A twin for EM100 Smile
  Streamliner Junior Train Controller

Location: NSW South Coast
V/Line would actually be a good candidate for a what if, and more plausible than AN green and gold. But I'll leave that one for you guys to have fun with!
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Guys, just finished the Silverton Alco (except for weathering, windows and couplers) in time to clear some space for the latest S scale project.



  Old Northern Station Master

When I have an hour or two to spare, I'll have to give this a good clean.  The body is a bit grubby, but the paintwork and transfers are in good condition.  It runs well, albeit a trifle noisily, so there's probably some dust and fluff to be cleaned out of the mechanism - and it probably hasn't been lubricated for a few decades, so a bit of oil may not go amiss.

  davesvline Chief Commissioner

Location: 1983-1998
Some time has presented itself, and I've decided to make an effort amoung competing interests with little ones to dress up some Austrains RTR models.

On the started list is;

1) renumbering Y class locos. I gently picked off the existing ones on the sides with finger nail, and replaced them with some off the additional plate set Austrains did for the Y. For the ends i simply went on top of the existing as they are moulded into the handrail section. I don't believe the new plate over the old one is actually that obvious. Glued with a smidge of Micro Krystal Klear.

2) as part of the above I'm painting BGM number boards. I did as the instructions said, and I'm having limited success, suffice to say that they're currently all white and I'm waiting the required time for the acrylic paint to harden. More so an issue with the airbrush and getting that right I suppose. I'm two minds as to the black as per the instructions, or the Koh I Noor ink option someone suggested........... Leaning towards the ink option at this stage, but i will experiment with that on a plate number I don't intend to use as a guide.

3) First series Y class. In conjunction with both from above, I've snipped the bottom fuel level pipe from near the cab and glued to the side of the loco a previously build VHC battery box. Awaiting the painted number boards to complete.

4) VOBX. The old Austrains near enough is good enough.. Their rib sided E13 pack VOBX has the V/Line plate in the middle of the wagon - FAIL!!. The E14 smooth sided version had them painted in the middle, and on this version its correct.So I'm moving them to the correct spot, by gently picking around the sides with finger nail, then from the bottom up, and they easily come away. Varying results from the original glue mark on the side of the wagon, and the ribs mostly have a matt look where the glue sat compared to the gloss look elsewhere. Again re glued with a smidge of Micro Krystal Klear.

Hopefully, the above makes sense to some, as I'm yet to take photos and have no idea how to get them up on here if I did.

Regards

ps - shall advise how i go.

pps - Micro Krystal Klear is the goods, particularly being able to slide plates, the colour it dries etc.
  Draffa Chief Commissioner

In a parallel universe class leader XL01 passes through Balhannah during AN's test runs around the state. There is one detail I missed....
Streamliner
Looks pretty sweet!
your XPT exploits made we wonder, what if Vline/Victorian Government insisted on one unit being Vline....
dthead
Yeessssssss!
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Ok Guys, I'm not sure about showing this one at this stage but its something I have been working on the last few months. Still lots to do in terms of design work, let alone build. Most of the parts have been printed at home and better quality prints are somewhere in the mail, but I got the rods just the other day. It will eventually be done in white metal and brass, just proofing the design for fit at the moment. It is S scale.





and there has been some work on the DA

  TheMeddlingMonk Deputy Commissioner

Location: The Time Vortex near Melbourne, Australia
I'm impressed! I want to try scratchbuilding a steam loco someday (that day is probably a long way off for a number of reasons) and recognise it's not an easy task.

May I ask how you went about it and sourced the mech, wheels, rods, etc?
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

May I ask how you went about it and sourced the mech, wheels, rods, etc?
TheMeddlingMonk
I started with a General Arrangement drawing and as many photos as I could find. I also spent time down the National Rail Museum taking additional photos and measurements. Everything I had to make was drawn in Autodesk Inventor, one component at a time, then built into assemblies so I can check fit and the look. It also allows me to think through how the kit will be built up. Scaling off the drawing can be very problematic so building the assemblies in Inventor also gives you a chance to look at the model and see if it "looks" correct.



Anything that needs to be brass or nickel silver etched will be drawn in Autocad and sent to an etcher such as PPD Ltd in Scotland to have etches done. I used to have them done by Model Etch in Adelaide but they have shut up shop.

Wheels, motors, gearboxes and some cast brass items can be sourced from either Markits in the UK (for HO and O scale), or North Yard in NZ for S scale.
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

More progress on T02 (formerly DA1)

  SA_trains Deputy Commissioner

Location: ACT
As always, excellent work Matt!

Love the T. Looks very good.

Cheers,

Dan
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Got the decals on but still need to do some work to get a couple of edges/corners to sit down. then it will be onto handrails.





  G Train Locomotive Driver

Hi all,


I have read and seen some great work on here and on blogs by other modellers on what they have been doing and it has inspired me to do some work of my own. If you have old Powerline or Trax 48 (or 830) class locomotives that you don’t want to re-motor, an option can be to make it a dummy and operate it with more modern models thereby not having compatibility issues with running speed, noise and sometimes unreliable electrical pick-ups.


One of my projects started a couple of years ago but more or less finished (if one ever really is) in 2016 was to turn my un-numbered Candy 48 class into a detailed dummy to better represent it as it was in service and to use with my more recently purchased locomotives. A brief summary of what I did was:


·         Kadee coupler mounting & pilot infill (including cutting back of die cast chassis)

·         Fit RP25 wheels Powerline (to run on Code 83 & 75 track)

·         Fit bump blocks

·         Remove buffers (in my case to represent 4808 in late 80’s, early 90’s)

·         Drill & solder additional handrails

·         Replace number boards AR Kits

·         Thin down stanchions (carefully) with a Dremel type tool

·         Drill out the exhaust a few mm

·         Brass horns

·         Brass Fletner vent over toilet end

·         Brass air tank to side running board

·         Whitemetal hose castings to pilots

·         Decal

·         Touch up paint

·         Dull cote finish - has subdued the darkness of the red scheme somewhat

·         Remove pick-ups from no.2 end bogie

·         Remove a flywheel cog from no.1 end bogie

·         Cut back additional weight from die cast chassis (no longer needed for adhesion & to improve haulage of it)


I used photos of my model and various articles in AMRM to guide me, with detail parts from Casula Hobbies, L&C Kits, AR Kits, Powerline and with some items scratchbuilt. There are some other items I may get around to when I feel the motivation but I do want to weather it. It can definitely be detailed further, but I need to weigh up the time and money involved given it will usually be a trailing unit. This has given some new life to an old model and I think looks much better alongside or attached to another factory detailed loco. Any questions, feel free to ask.


Cheers,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/81747760@N05/31873307782/in/datetaken-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/81747760@N05/31904420251/in/datetaken-public/
  davesvline Chief Commissioner

Location: 1983-1998
A nice result there G Train.

For my progress from my September post, the results of my loco number plate painting were mostly a fail. I managed to stuff up all of the BGM ones. I couldn't get the white right over the undercoat grey, and this resulted in complete loss of detail with paint filling in the detail. Doing nothing differently,  I had better luck with the VR Enthusiast number boards,  so much so that I managed to get a set on my C506 and C507 locos.

Changing the Y class boards to spares from the Austrains set was relatively easy as i had little difficulty picking off the side plates. I used a smidge of Micro Krystal Klear to stick on the new side platss, and the same with the end plates directly over the top the existing ones which are moulded into the handrail. I was very pleased with this result.

This left me in limbo with re numbering my T and a first series Y I had a battery box for. So having renumbered my Y ' s with new plates,  I had a few Y168 plates left over. Then the idea hits me. Get a toothpick and with black enamel wipe out the centre of the 6,  then when it dries draw in the top right side changing the 6 into a 0. Chop off the bottom fuel tank indicator pipe,  stick the painted battery box on and bingo - there's  Y108.
Oh, the same also works for turning T368 into T360.  Paint the handrails white and orange from a few photos I found of the loco - done. Used a toothpick with black to put the little dot for the inspection porthole that T class locos  (and H class) with EMD 645 engines had. I couldn't find a decal dot to use for the best results,  so I wasn't overly fussy with this as  didn't want black paint spoiled over the side of the model.

Sorry for no photos,  but hopefully those who are familiar with the T and Y class's can picture what I've done.

Now to try and source more plates........ Can't find BGM anywhere. Last time I saw them was at Caulfield a couple of years ago,  and VR Enthusiast have a smaller ( but excellent detail ) range. Pity......

Regards
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Hey guys, I got the T done and been working on a couple of other projects. Just decalled the NJ tonight.All are Sn3.5





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