I've read other examples of this but have only just started to experience it myself and cannot find what others have used to remedy the problem. I've got a few wagons starting to throw tyres and wondering what people use to glue them back on? Whilst most examples are metal tyres on plastic spoked wheels there's a metal on metal example too on a TOR C32 driver, so wondering if a different glue needs to be used there?The best advice seems to be Loctite. If you dare to use super glue or epoxy, you had better get those tyres properly aligned, first go!
Another way to fix loose tyres is to use tissue paper like a Kleneex type or similar. Pull the tissue apart into its respective plys and use one of these to fix your loose tyres. Take the tyre off if it is not already off the wheel centre and lay it down the correct way for the wheel centre to go back in, they place a piece of the single ply tissue over the tyre and then carefully push home the wheel centre back into the tyre. You can remove the plastic wheel centre from the axle if possible. Any excess tissue can be rubbed away with your fingers to get it back to how it looked. But the wheel centre and the tyre should now be tight fit again, you could add a drop of super glue to the paper though after you have got it on all nice and square. I have used this method for a long time with no glue and it has saved a lot of wheels where the tyre came loose on the plastic centre. Old SEM wheels seemed to be the worse offenders though but other do it as well. Read this article and see photos on this link. I apoligize for some of the out of focus photos but my camera decided to throw a wobbly at the time.So essentially you are adding a thin paper shim. I like it for its simplicity!
Bit of a disaster last night. Despite your bold text yogibarnes of using a small amount of glue, I still used too much and although I thought my first axle set looked nice and straight, I set it on an incline and let it free roll and both tyres were out of alignment. The others weren't as bad but still not acceptable. Getting tyres off again was a pain. I had to remove the axles to avoid damaging them then had to paint acetone on both sides of the joins multiple times before punching the centres out with my thumb whilst resting the tyre on a 15mm socket as per picture. Once cleaned again I reversed the tyres on a 17mm socket, applied a small bit of glue then firmly pushed in the wheels.I had a fellow modeller fix my 32cl wheels/tyres, he used super glue forget the actual brand but it was very much an early well known brand which then had many other brands come out, IIRC it was made in the U.S
Finally some success. If I'm totally honest I'll admit to a very slight wobble on two wheels but not noticeable. I only noticed whilst viewing above with 2x mag reading glasses as the wheels were rolled. Quartering wasn't as hard as I thought it would be with spokes being lined up by sight before inserting axle splines. However a couple of the wheel centres could rotate which means the teeth on their respective cogs were out a bit. I found rotating in the middle axle first was the easiest so far as the front and rear axles were easier to remove. As each axle is inserted it rolls a little as the gears mesh, so a few goes were needed to line things up before the rods were screwed on.
In the end by about 0130 this morning it ran really well. The only thing to do now is replace some detail bits I knocked off. Be damned if I could find the tender's ladder though.
Socket used as anvil
which is the reason a thread-locking adhesive should be used - they work on Stainless Steel and other passive metals. Superglue is NOT RECOMMENDED.
I believe part of the problem is the tyres being made from Stainless Steel, rather than the old Nickel Silver, SS does not seem to like glues which does not help.
Yeah I read that before a6et regarding wheel material. I went on a search for all threads on the TOR C32 because I recently bought this one off ebay. It sat in a cupboard for a little while before I took it out and found the the tyre's loose. So I wasn't surprised but thought it would be easier to fix. But yeah, that little practice and experience will help now if I get another. A swipe of alcohol on the mating surfaces is a good idea and one I didn't think of despite having a spray bottle of it right in front of me last night.The tyres is the only issue I have had with the TOR 32, although I would have preferred the tender to be in one of the ABS or other similar types rather than metal. A few reasons, and they are weight, a non Metal tender shell would have cut the weight down as the metal does affect load pulling to a degree on grades. I have lost some tender hand rails, as they are only divet connected to the tender, and have fallen off, hard to glue back. The type of SS that is used in the tyres, I have found creates a black residue on the nickel silver track, its not dirt as such but more like a soft oil or something, it wipes off with a tissue, so when I run the model I put an S truck behind the tender with one of the axle clip on cleaning pads, works a treat.
Regarding the stainless steel tyres though, I thought it was around the other way, not from what I've read, but what I observed last night and a misconception of mine. For example, the wheels aren't magnetic but the tyres are. Found out by accident when one of the tyres was stuck near the top of the boiler. I thought that was interesting. A wheel wasn't attracted. Tested the same with a magnetic screwdriver. But as I type this I've done a google because I meant to do search after reading about the DCC concepts power base product not long ago which has "stainless steel" plates under the track and magnets on the underside of the locos. I thought they must have made a typo. My misconception was that stainless steel is non magnetic but answers elsewhere says there's different types and some are magnetic. So something else I've learnt there.
This TOR 32 is a nice runner though and i like it's all metal body and chassis. Haven't done any heavy pull tests, but at 243g loco only, it's heavier than the Austrains first run 36 at 225g and since it pulls well I expect the same or better. So I hope the tyre composition on the 32 doesn't decrease friction.
Oh man..I thought about it.. I saw you mention it, I mentioned it and I have two bottles of 243 in my tool chest, or maybe it's 242. It's red. I just know that I've had to heat with a gas torch some auto nuts and bolts to free them and feared that if I messed up on these tiny wheels they'd be permanently stuck or if I wanted to redo them I'd end up melting the wheel centres.Good luck Oscar, and thanks for sharing your experience!
But I reckon I got the hang of it now, so if I get another or tyre gets thrown off this one again I'll have a crack.
Good article, will do further checks with the fellow who fixed my 32cl wheels/tyres.
I believe part of the problem is the tyres being made from Stainless Steel, rather than the old Nickel Silver, SS does not seem to like glues which does not help.which is the reason a thread-locking adhesive should be used - they work on Stainless Steel and other passive metals. Superglue is NOT RECOMMENDED.