Locomotives and Rollingstock on your Workbench

 
  meh Chief Commissioner

Location: Sydney
Another blog update on the NPRYs. Looking much better now and a benchmark for the rest of the fleet (when I get around to them)

http://bigdirtyfreighttrains.blogspot.com.au/


Cheers,
-Mitch

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  SARenthusiast Station Staff

New to this, still cutting my teeth.
Love anything South Australian.

Here's my first attempt at an SAR model.
My unfinished 400 Redhen.
  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
New to this, still cutting my teeth.
Love anything South Australian.

Here's my first attempt at an SAR model.
My unfinished 400 Redhen.
SARenthusiast
The RedHen looks great so far, as is the road on that layout, typical South Australian road cracked to blazes and full of pot holes.
  SARenthusiast Station Staff

Hahaha. South Australian infrastructure. Don't get me started. But no these cracks were accidental and way to big they will be touched up eventually, the layout is only young.
  HWYRNR1984 Station Staff

Location: Chasing a white line somewhere...
The redhen looks great SARenthusiast, but the scenery looks even more interesting. Great to see layouts with a bit of scenery, seems to be very difficult getting past that bare benchtop stage. Took me a couple of years lol. Once you get started on  scenery though it seems to be addictive, especially with all the great products available nowdays. More pics please SARenthusiast!!
  SARenthusiast Station Staff

The redhen looks great SARenthusiast, but the scenery looks even more interesting. Great to see layouts with a bit of scenery, seems to be very difficult getting past that bare benchtop stage. Took me a couple of years lol. Once you get started on  scenery though it seems to be addictive, especially with all the great products available nowdays. More pics please SARenthusiast!!
HWYRNR1984
The scenery is something about the modeling that interests me most. I think South Australia just has that special look to it, the infrastructure, the natural landscapes. My inspiration is the mid north regions of SA. There is so much to work with its great, at the moment I'm experimenting with everything I can to try and get it looking right.
  ANDL36Y Train Controller

The redhen looks great SARenthusiast, but the scenery looks even more interesting. Great to see layouts with a bit of scenery, seems to be very difficult getting past that bare benchtop stage. Took me a couple of years lol. Once you get started on  scenery though it seems to be addictive, especially with all the great products available nowdays. More pics please SARenthusiast!!
HWYRNR1984

I second that, more photos of your layout please SARenthusiast! Smile

Cheers,
Joshua
  troy310589 Station Master

Location: Adelaide Hills!
Hi all, hoping to add some more updates in the near future, just built a small spray booth for airbrushing, and i have a few more Lima models to convert to GMs now, and a few of the life-Like stonie wagons to paint.
[img]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8118/8746519125_34044f4975.jpg[/img]
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77396455@N06/8746519125/
  meh Chief Commissioner

Location: Sydney
I've updated my blog with the current status of my Berg's HUB set.

http://bigdirtyfreighttrains.blogspot.com.au/2013/05/bergs-hub-set.html
Cheers
  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
Currently on my work bench are three Bachmann Circus train sets that have to have Kadee's fitted, these plastic EzyMate couplers that come with them though are just so much rubbish, the bin for them. The only other problem is that the coupler boxes need to be modified slightly to take a number 5 coupler, why Bachmann could not make the centre pin in the coupler boxes take a Kadee is beyond me it is a smidgen too large, it is all but impossible to get to it as well, so this has to be removed and a new hole made and then a standard number 5 fits in easily with a new screw to hold it all together. Got one set done just have to get some more Kadee couplers though. This is for a display by the way.
  David Peters Dr Beeching

Location: "With Hey Boy".
Hahaha. South Australian infrastructure. Don't get me started. But no these cracks were accidental and way to big they will be touched up eventually, the layout is only young.
SARenthusiast
You have not seen the roads down my then, some cracks and pot holes you could lose a semi down them.Laughing
  lkernan Assistant Commissioner

Location: Melbourne
Put a very rough coat of primer on my G scale TGR Y class loco to help find the problems tonight.
Still a long way to go but it's starting to look a little like the real thing.

[img]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/8839180465_8440fb2654.jpg[/img]
  BladeHunter Station Master

Location: Sydney
Put a very rough coat of primer on my G scale TGR Y class loco to help find the problems tonight.
Still a long way to go but it's starting to look a little like the real thing.

[img]http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3696/8839180465_8440fb2654.jpg[/img]
lkernan

More pics please. Smile
  lkernan Assistant Commissioner

Location: Melbourne
More pics please. Smile
BladeHunter

No problem, i've been posting a few on my Flickr site.

  appleby Deputy Commissioner

Location: South of the Tweed - In Canberra.
Y class looks great lkernan. Smile
  anzac1959 Chief Commissioner

Building a Infront models DOT Tanker

http://neeburn.blogspot.com.au/
  BladeHunter Station Master

Location: Sydney
WOW the picture on the pavers really gives a good idea of the size of that model. Looks great.
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
They aren't quite on my layout or workbench yet, but I've recently ordered 3 packs of NSW NOFF ore wagons from Bobs Hobbies. I expect them to arrive next Monday.

I only just became aware of their special.....a 6 pack of these wagons for $75-!! That's $12.50 per wagon; not much more than the price of a decent pair of bogies and couplers.

I'm not sure how accurate these Columbia Models wagons are, but given my ability to overlook most flaws of rolling stock, I'm sure I will be happy with a complete train (W44) which I will haul behind my AD60+ a growler and eventually a pair of Auscicion 45s will look good. These wagons will be heavily weathered before they get too far into regular service.

I know they are not within my era (I tend to model around 1982...just pre-"candy" era), but I have a huge degree of modellers licence and work on the principle of: If I want to run something....I bloody-well will!! hahaha

Roachie
  speedemon08 Mary

Location: I think by now you should have figured it out
They aren't quite on my layout or workbench yet, but I've recently ordered 3 packs of NSW NOFF ore wagons from Bobs Hobbies. I expect them to arrive next Monday.

I only just became aware of their special.....a 6 pack of these wagons for $75-!! That's $12.50 per wagon; not much more than the price of a decent pair of bogies and couplers.

I'm not sure how accurate these Columbia Models wagons are, but given my ability to overlook most flaws of rolling stock, I'm sure I will be happy with a complete train (W44) which I will haul behind my AD60+ a growler and eventually a pair of Auscicion 45s will look good. These wagons will be heavily weathered before they get too far into regular service.

I know they are not within my era (I tend to model around 1982...just pre-"candy" era), but I have a huge degree of modellers licence and work on the principle of: If I want to run something....I bloody-well will!! hahaha

Roachie
Roachie
Check the wheels and how they roll, and add some weight. Other than that it is fine.
  Chipps Chief Train Controller

Location: NSW
They are nice little wagons for  behind a loco, loading/stored  in a quarry,  or any yard area  Roachie. I have two sets.

Good your are considering weathering heavily, as they do have a very thin body, so light shows through the sides.

Weathered & loaded they do look a treat.
  mattc66 Locomotive Driver

Finally completed the corrugated iron roof on the Victor Harbor station. It ended up being more challenging than anticipated but I am happy with the end result.







Next will be gutters, facias and the two chimneys before I move on to doors and windows.
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
There's no going back now!!!

Several months ago I raised an issue I was having with a Eureka AD60 class I'd bought 2nd hand. It was playing up; the rear unit would not start moving until several speed steps after the front unit.

I've persevered with it and then left it on a siding for a couple of months.

Today I decided to take the plunge. I removed the tops off the 2 motor units and tried to check if there was any difference with the bare motors being used (just in case the plastic "covers" had something to do with the issue....which I didn't really expect). No difference.

I tried placing the front unit at the back and vice versa....but the wiring must be different as the result was that the sound went nuts, but the motors didn't respond at all.

Time to tackle the dreaded boiler section. I had decided that that pesky QSI decoder was going to "decoder heaven". Many had warned me of the difficulties experienced in the task of removing the boiler top off its chassis. Piece of cake! I removed the 2 counter-sunk screws up the front (underneath). I inserted a largish flat screwdriver into one side of the housing where the electrical connection to the front unit and gently levered this upwards. The front edge of the metal frame lifted away from the plastic boiler and I inserted another screwdriver in the gap created. I continued to prise-open the 2 portions; the job was completed in about 30 seconds flat from go to whoa. Too easy.

The decoder was unceremoniously removed with wires being cut. Like I said at the beginning....there is no going back. My main interest is to get the model running smoothly and with reasonable sound output. I am not too worried about lighting and have snipped the blue wires as well as the white and yellow.

I now plan to set the model aside until I can order a suitable sound decoder. I think I will wait and see what these new TCS "WOW" decoders are like, once they become commonly available.

I'm also planning on altering another fundamental aspect of this model. It is built in a very similar manner to the old, original Model Dockyard brass Garratt, in that the boiler unit rides on the 2 inboard bogies. This is a dreadful system as far as making the best use of weight is concerned. Not only is the weight of the boiler not utilised to aid adhesion/traction, it actually detracts from the pulling power of the loco, as it effectively becomes a heavy "wagon".

Instead, as I did with the 2 Dockyard 60 class locos, I plan to add an "out-rigger" to each motor unit. This will be attached to the underside of the power unit/s and will extend back towards the centre of the loco, to such a position that the inboard bogies can become part of the power unit/s. This is the same system employed by both Mansfield and DJH Garratts. I will add a small pad of plastic/styrene for the boiler to sit on and depending on space available inside the boiler, will also add additional weight to the boiler to aid traction. The springs on the outer bogies will either be removed totally or shortened, so they don't detract from traction. All 4 bogies are very light and may need to have some lead added (if feasible).

I will report again once I have completed the job.

Roachie
  Roachie Chief Commissioner

Location: Kadina SA (formerly NSW)
Further to yesterday's post (above).....

I have now ordered a WOW decoder direct from TCS in the USA. Not sure when it will be available. I also ordered a couple of their 6-pin cable joiners.

Today I started doing some work on the joints between the 3 units as well as adding some lead to each of the bogies. I managed to find a plumber who provided me with a small sheet of lead flashing.

After removing the plastic covers (over the electrical plugs) off each power unit, I found that I could fit a 10ba nut into the "V" shaped groove in the metal base. I drilled a hole through this metal base, suitable to allow a 10ba bolt to pass through. I cut some extra pieces of lead flashing, one for each power unit/inner bogie. These are approximately 5mm wide. The length is determined by where the inner bogies are to be located, about 15mm long with some overhang above the bogie. Holes were drilled in the lead at a distance that enabled the bogie to sit in the correct location in relation to the power unit. I had planned to make this "outrigger" rigid on the power unit, but instead I have allowed it to pivot at both ends.....similar to the connection type traditionally used between a steam loco and it's tender.

I fumbled through my spare parts bits and pieces and found that I still had a couple of bits left over from the DJH Garratts I had built (for other modellers). The crucial parts needed were the 2 threaded brass washers and their related brass "pins" that act as the 2 pivot points. I drilled/tapped a M2 thread in the 2 plastic covers I had earlier removed. These have had the respective brass "pins" screwed into them with the brass threaded base/washer. The one for the bunker end needs to be VERY shallow, the length being equal to the thickness of the metal base of the boiler unit.

I then determined the position to drill the holes in the boiler's metal base section, so that the boiler will locate correctly in relation to the 2 power units. With the hole for the rear unit, care had to be exercised as the piece of plastic tube (which represents the auger for taking the coal from the bunker to the firebox) is located right above where this hole has to be drilled.

I also spent a few minutes fixing another small issue. The previous owner had decided the model would look good if the cab doors were "open". In fact, they have been totally removed and discarded. I didn't mind this feature and knew about when I bought it. What I wasn't so happy about upon receipt of the model, was the way the top of each of the 4 vertical handrails had been left swinging in the breeze.....their respective staunchons having been removed along with the doors. So I drilled .4mm holes in the cab sides, as close as possible to the edge of the door frames and have bent-up some .4mm brass wire for new handrails. I won't bother painting these handrails black I don't reckon.

Oh, by the way, with the motors currently being exposed, I decided to run them on DC with an amp meter to check their respective current draw. With no load (the wheels were turning "in mid air"), each motor drew the same amount of current at mid range on the old H&M controller: 0.24amps. So at least I can now be pretty sure that the issues I was having before were not related to the motor being "bad".

I'm still deciding whether to strip the power units back even further to totally replace the black and red power pick-up wires. At the moment I only have a small length of each one exposed...then they disappear under the base plate. I guess if I'm going to do the job right, I may as well go the whole hog!

Roachie
  beyer_6029 Locomotive Driver

Location: ACT
There's no going back now!!!

Several months ago I raised an issue I was having with a Eureka AD60 class I'd bought 2nd hand. It was playing up; the rear unit would not start moving until several speed steps after the front unit.

I've persevered with it and then left it on a siding for a couple of months.

Today I decided to take the plunge. I removed the tops off the 2 motor units and tried to check if there was any difference with the bare motors being used (just in case the plastic "covers" had something to do with the issue....which I didn't really expect). No difference.

I tried placing the front unit at the back and vice versa....but the wiring must be different as the result was that the sound went nuts, but the motors didn't respond at all.

Time to tackle the dreaded boiler section. I had decided that that pesky QSI decoder was going to "decoder heaven". Many had warned me of the difficulties experienced in the task of removing the boiler top off its chassis. Piece of cake! I removed the 2 counter-sunk screws up the front (underneath). I inserted a largish flat screwdriver into one side of the housing where the electrical connection to the front unit and gently levered this upwards. The front edge of the metal frame lifted away from the plastic boiler and I inserted another screwdriver in the gap created. I continued to prise-open the 2 portions; the job was completed in about 30 seconds flat from go to whoa. Too easy.

The decoder was unceremoniously removed with wires being cut. Like I said at the beginning....there is no going back. My main interest is to get the model running smoothly and with reasonable sound output. I am not too worried about lighting and have snipped the blue wires as well as the white and yellow.

I now plan to set the model aside until I can order a suitable sound decoder. I think I will wait and see what these new TCS "WOW" decoders are like, once they become commonly available.

I'm also planning on altering another fundamental aspect of this model. It is built in a very similar manner to the old, original Model Dockyard brass Garratt, in that the boiler unit rides on the 2 inboard bogies. This is a dreadful system as far as making the best use of weight is concerned. Not only is the weight of the boiler not utilised to aid adhesion/traction, it actually detracts from the pulling power of the loco, as it effectively becomes a heavy "wagon".

Instead, as I did with the 2 Dockyard 60 class locos, I plan to add an "out-rigger" to each motor unit. This will be attached to the underside of the power unit/s and will extend back towards the centre of the loco, to such a position that the inboard bogies can become part of the power unit/s. This is the same system employed by both Mansfield and DJH Garratts. I will add a small pad of plastic/styrene for the boiler to sit on and depending on space available inside the boiler, will also add additional weight to the boiler to aid traction. The springs on the outer bogies will either be removed totally or shortened, so they don't detract from traction. All 4 bogies are very light and may need to have some lead added (if feasible).

I will report again once I have completed the job.

Roachie
Roachie

Hi Roachie,

I found the same lazy/dragging unit on one of my mix'n'match Garratt’s that I purchased from Ron.

What I did to find the problem was to first remove the body from the  problem unit and run it back and forth on a test track to see what’s going on  inside.

What I noticed was that the slack in the wheels when the loco is moved by hand (or by the other unit powering) before it finds resistance from the gears is actually a result of the  motor armature/drive shaft has an amount of play longitudinally through the motor housing.

Next I disconnected the good drive unit and set it aside and proceeded to test the suspect unit by dragging it along the track to take up all slack in one direction, and then throttle up from that standing position.

I repeated this a second time but instead dragged the unit in the opposite direction this time it stalled until I pushed the unit by hand in the opposite direction.





What I believe is happening is the armature of the motor has an excessive amount of end to end play that is allowing the brushes of the motor to disengage when pushed to its limit at one end.

I haven’t yet had time to try and rectify the problem with the motor but I believe a small amount of packing or a spacer will fix the issue.


also if you no longer want the QSI sound board I can always use a spare.


Cheers

Beyer  

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