If brass wire that fine would be too fine, then the chain itself must be the finest that we have seen from any manufacturer, I think the finest chain that is usually available is around 40 links.

Just reread your post saying the chain came off on the brake cylinder end, could you remove the D shackle from the piston rod, & make fit wire through there & into the chain, is the chain metal or plastic, if metal maybe solder hard wire to the chain & drop the wire through brake arm, if plastic do the same but use super glue.

I would guess it is 40 links/inch metal chain they've used and I hear what you're saying about just looping a piece of fine wire with a "hook" on one end to just drop through the hole in the piston arm. It is the job of forming the other end of that new piece (IE: get the wire bent around to a REALLY small loop where it would connect on to the original chain) that would be the killer.

I wouldn't like to solder or super glue it either although the latter would be the better option IMHO (because the chain is painted/treated it would not take solder readily I imagine).

In any case, like I've said before, the absence of the chain loses me not one wink of sleep....hahaha

Roachie

EDIT
Interestingly a US clinic advocating using a shared resistor, received mail advocating it was not a great policy, because if you have several led's hanging off a suitable resistor, they need to be a perfect match, otherwise one will take all the power and the other will remain off.
Although I should not have a problem with front and rear headlights where only one is lit at a time. The ditch lights would need to be another function though.

So long as the total current being provided (as determined by the resistor) does not exceed the Continuous Forward Current of one LED then wiring them up in parallel is perfectly fine.  You can assume a CFC of around 20mA for most LEDs, but always double check if possible.

I typically find that I like my LED current well under their CFC (somethings 25% or lower) so I can quite safely wire 3 LEDs (maybe even 4) up in that sort of situation.  If one of them decides to turn on before the others and take all of the current

a) That LED is still safe.
b) I should notice this before gluing everything in and try some different LEDs.

The problem the readers are referring to can only occur if you assume that the LEDs will 'nicely' share more current than one alone can handle.

I picked up my 4801 yesterday, very happy with it and the weathering job they did on it.

I picked up my 4801 yesterday, very happy with it and the weathering job they did on it.

Looking great mate!!!

Hi all, has anyone else not recieved or heard from traino regarding their 48s?  Web site hasn't been updated to indicate if mail out is continuing or completed and "wait till you hear from us". Just wondering if anyone else in same boat before I ring them.  Bob

Hi all, has anyone else not recieved or heard from traino regarding their 48s?  Web site hasn't been updated to indicate if mail out is continuing or completed and "wait till you hear from us". Just wondering if anyone else in same boat before I ring them.  Bob

Last update is shown as 1st February.  If the number you are after is in those listed as having arrived I would contact them, but if its in the next expected group, they are in the next batch to come, 2nd quarter.

I doubt if it would hurt now, to give them a ring, as that update seemed to advising that the first lot of 830's were waiting to be cleared customs.

Hi all, has anyone else not recieved or heard from traino regarding their 48s?  Web site hasn't been updated to indicate if mail out is continuing or completed and "wait till you hear from us". Just wondering if anyone else in same boat before I ring them.  Bob

I haven't been contacted, not panicking yet as I had ordered 48+830 models that cross all the batches.

I am NOT saying that this correct, but didn't I see somewhere where Toms/Bob's Hobbies were going to guarantee that their 48 classes would be cheaper than Powerline's recent 48 classes - yes I know Powerline's have a slight inaccurate cab? I believe the stated price MAY have been $295, as against $315-$320 for Powerline.

And is it me, or does this picture (http://tomshobbies.com.au/images/s18809.jpg) show posts that are maybe too thick?, although that again may be a compromise due to the scale.

And I'm also now curious, do you know if they are using the same gear "thing-a-mij" as their 44's?

I am NOT saying that this correct, but didn't I see somewhere where Toms/Bob's Hobbies were going to guarantee that their 48 classes would be cheaper than Powerline's recent 48 classes - yes I know Powerline's have a slight inaccurate cab? I believe the stated price MAY have been $295, as against $315-$320 for Powerline.

And is it me, or does this picture (http://tomshobbies.com.au/images/s18809.jpg) show posts that are maybe too thick?, although that again may be a compromise due to the scale.

And I'm also now curious, do you know if they are using the same gear "thing-a-mij" as their 44's?

PL advertises their 48's at $325.00 at least the last I saw the prices, the TOR models were originally set around the $275.00 IIRC.  A lot has happened since then & the current price really does not surprise me & it is something that modellers will have to get used to as I don't see the price especially of new models being under that in the very near future.

I do not see the posts/hand rail staunchions being too thick, only way to know is to measure them on a model, for me they look ok though.

These models come from a completely different factory to the one that produced the 44cl so they should be different, the factory that is now used is also the one that produces the quality Heljan range of models.

PL advertises their 48's at $325.00 at least the last I saw the prices, the TOR models were originally set around the $275.00 IIRC.  A lot has happened since then & the current price really does not surprise me & it is something that modellers will have to get used to as I don't see the price especially of new models being under that in the very near future.

I do not see the posts/hand rail staunchions being too thick, only way to know is to measure them on a model, for me they look ok though.

These models come from a completely different factory to the one that produced the 44cl so they should be different, the factory that is now used is also the one that produces the quality Heljan range of models.

Hobbyland have the Powerline 48 Class at $295.00

Hobbyland have the Powerline 48 Class at $295.00

I had heard that some shops that were onsellers were offering the models at that price, notice also that Casulla has them at the $325.00 price though.

If I was in the market for a 48cl, & the offerings were the PL or TOR only, & based even on the lower price point of the PL model, I personally would rather put up the extra $20.00 for the TOR model.

I wonder if their is a side-by-side/front-to-front photo of the same/similar 48 class between Powerline & Trainorama?

I wonder if their is a side-by-side/front-to-front photo of the same/similar 48 class between Powerline & Trainorama?

I have seen a couple & from what I have seen is that the TOR models are finer.  PL has plastic hand rails for the steps & the like.

Just been running a triple header consisting of a new Auscision 45 class leading a pair of Trainorama 48 class.....they look grouse together!!! Colours are very good side by side too.

Congratulations to both manufacturers for the efforts....

Roachie

I have seen a couple & from what I have seen is that the TOR models are finer.  PL has plastic hand rails for the steps & the like.

TOR ones have flatter fronts than the Powerliner ones. the fronts should be at the same line across as the light boxes, the Powerlines ones are correct here. My Dad's got six and he wants to cut the front off my Trasx ones for he's. It's a big sore when you look at them all, he says the Trax are the best nose.

TOR ones have flatter fronts than the Powerliner ones. the fronts should be at the same line across as the light boxes, the Powerlines ones are correct here. My Dad's got six and he wants to cut the front off my Trasx ones for he's. It's a big sore when you look at them all, he says the Trax are the best nose.

Well, I guess your dad knows best!!

As far as I'm concerned, the shape of the body is accurate to comparisons I've made with pics and drawings shown in Ron Preston's book: "48 BACKBONE OF THE RAILWAYS".

The front (ie: short end) has a pronounced "point", whilst the rear (long end) is flat.

If your dad wants to butcher his 6 locos I wish him well..... (walks away shaking head).....

Roachie

TOR ones have flatter fronts than the Powerliner ones. the fronts should be at the same line across as the light boxes, the Powerlines ones are correct here. My Dad's got six and he wants to cut the front off my Trasx ones for he's. It's a big sore when you look at them all, he says the Trax are the best nose.

Whoah!!!
Thats a modification thats asking for trouble. Not sure if I would be attempting that!!!

So Austin & Roachie, are you saying that the dearer 48's are actually inaccurate compared to the Powerline's in a main part, that being the front of the short end?

So Austin & Roachie, are you saying that the dearer 48's are actually inaccurate compared to the Powerline's in a main part, that being the front of the short end?

I wouldn't have thought that Roachie was saying that at all. I'll take the TOR model any day over the Powerline model.

TOR ones have flatter fronts than the Powerliner ones. the fronts should be at the same line across as the light boxes, the Powerlines ones are correct here. My Dad's got six and he wants to cut the front off my Trasx ones for he's. It's a big sore when you look at them all, he says the Trax are the best nose.

Austin
With all due respect to your Dad, I think that he is almost certainly wrong.  I cannot compare the Powerline and Traino 48's although I have compared the Powerline and Trax and cannot see what he is talking about.
Railpage has the largest group of "experts" on the PLANET!     If such an important part as the nose was wrong, we would have known about it months ago
Cheers
Rod Young

TOR ones have flatter fronts than the Powerliner ones. the fronts should be at the same line across as the light boxes, the Powerlines ones are correct here. My Dad's got six and he wants to cut the front off my Trasx ones for he's. It's a big sore when you look at them all, he says the Trax are the best nose.

I can only go by the photo's of the models that i have seen as I have neither PL or TOR models. But having worked on the little rotters long enough along with other loco's & then checking the photo's on the TOR web site http://www.tomshobbies.com.au/index.php/tor-items with the top one showing 4801 from what I see of the front of the 48cl it looks fine to me.

If you then go through all of the photo's some show the same amount of angle with the distinct mid point vertical front join, while others do not, I put that down to the light when the photo's were taken & slightly different angle, more front on.  This also occured with the Auscision 46cl, in some paint schemes, the front nose looked very flat rather than having the same vertical join make as per the prototype.  So its highly unlikely that the models that appear to be a bit different in the photo's come from a different mold & designed differently.

How far out do you & your dad believe the front should be from the main body line, & the number box line? to do that you need to get the measurements from the outside edges & the mid point to compare all of them.

What to also consider is some models may have a more accentuated line than was actually found on the real version, more so to make it prominent which is something that can be lost in minaturisation of items.

You can see the 4801 picture and the angle is about half as pointey as the Trax and Powerline and they are the same. My Dad once drived Taxis with the older man from West Ryde who retired, He said years ago the nose angle was too small but he said to Dad maybe that can be fixed before the go on sale. He paid for his 48s along time ago and now he is upset.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/60901191@N08/5852148265/in/set-72157626348387549
this can see the angle.

You can see the 4801 picture and the angle is about half as pointey as the Trax and Powerline and they are the same. My Dad once drived Taxis with the older man from West Ryde who retired, He said years ago the nose angle was too small but he said to Dad maybe that can be fixed before the go on sale. He paid for his 48s along time ago and now he is upset.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/60901191@N08/5852148265/in/set-72157626348387549
this can see the angle.

I compared the model of 4801 to the link you provided but I'm struggling to see the difference. If there was a big difference its very hard to pick - probably not enough to warrant such a massive rebuild. But then again - its personal taste and choice but still and interesting observation.

BTW, do Bobs Hobbies still offer the weathered version of this model or was it just a limited pre-sale offer?

I can only go by the photo's of the models that i have seen as I have neither PL or TOR models. But having worked on the little rotters long enough along with other loco's & then checking the photo's on the TOR web site http://www.tomshobbies.com.au/index.php/tor-items with the top one showing 4801 from what I see of the front of the 48cl it looks fine to me.

If you then go through all of the photo's some show the same amount of angle with the distinct mid point vertical front join, while others do not, I put that down to the light when the photo's were taken & slightly different angle, more front on.  This also occured with the Auscision 46cl, in some paint schemes, the front nose looked very flat rather than having the same vertical join make as per the prototype.  So its highly unlikely that the models that appear to be a bit different in the photo's come from a different mold & designed differently.

How far out do you & your dad believe the front should be from the main body line, & the number box line? to do that you need to get the measurements from the outside edges & the mid point to compare all of them.

What to also consider is some models may have a more accentuated line than was actually found on the real version, more so to make it prominent which is something that can be lost in minaturisation of items.

I noticed the flat angle of the Auscision 46 class that you mention - but again when you see the model in the flesh ( at shows ) you can see its actually pretty close. The Freightrail Blue makes the nose look very flat and the yellow chevron enhances the flat illusion..whereas the candy looks good.

I compared the model of 4801 to the link you provided but I'm struggling to see the difference. If there was a big difference its very hard to pick - probably not enough to warrant such a massive rebuild. But then again - its personal taste and choice but still and interesting observation.

BTW, do Bobs Hobbies still offer the weathered version of this model or was it just a limited pre-sale offer?

Ok here's something to check.  Get a scale rule, measure from the front of the cab to the outside edge of the front.

Then do a straight line across the front from the outer edge of the extended shape in the middle to the side step, & then measure the difference between the two lines, do that both sides as well, to ensure the line is straight & not angled one way or the other & let us know the distance.  DO the same on the PL version & let us know that as well.

From memory of the angle there would be no more than one foot difference, & that is if it was that much.

Sometimes to much angle is provided to accentuate something which ends up being wrong.

If you publish those measurements in scale I am sure our SA cousin in big bad bill will measure that in the 48cl book,